Five minutes’ walk from St Peter’s, in a quaint hole-in-the-wall on the Via degli Scipioni, is Silvano Agosti’s two-screen cinema – an ex-porn theatre – which boasts a domestic Sony DVD projector (operated by magical remote control) through which the proprietor showcases his very own bootleg video editions against a dark grey board. “Dove il cinema è arte,” reads the picture house’s unpretentious tagline (“Where cinema is art”).